The History of Why: A Love Letter to the Unlucky Opal

The opal has always been known for its exquisite beauty, admired by many throughout time. Its rarity is based on the magnificent play of colors on its surface, with a kaleidoscopic display that is entirely unique to each piece of opal. This is just one of the reasons why it is so cherished. Working with this precious material (which, by the way, is not a gemstone, but a mineral) is not for the faint-hearted. Because of its temperamental nature, its sensitivity and fickleness, it takes a master to transform it from its rough rugged form into a polished beauty. And yet plenty have mastered this skill, for the opal has adorned many kings and queens. What is it about this extraordinary mineral that has captured the imagination of people for centuries? What is it about its magnetic energy that captivates us? This magnetic energy isn’t solely based on its physical properties but also its spiritual.

Superstition and jewelry go hand in hand. Stones and minerals have always been rumored to have magical properties, but there is a duality at play when it comes to the opal. For most of its existence, the opal was considered to be a good luck charm, rumored to lend its wearer invisible power. (And was therefore known as the patron of thieves.) And yet the myth around the opal has changed…Nowadays the opal has a reputation of being unlucky. Legend has it wearing an opal will bring you a great deal of misfortune. How did the meaning of this mineral change so drastically? In this article I will trace its history in search of the answer. 

Part of Kaouter’s collection of rough uncut opals. Image by Kaouter Zair.

Lucky, Lucky, Lucky

It is thought that the name opal is derived from the Latin word Opalus, which means precious stone. The Romans considered the opal to be a bearer of good fortune. Because of all the colors within an opal, they believed that the mineral possessed the virtues of all other stones. Pliny the Elder wrote about it in his Naturalis Historia, describing all the wonders of the mineral: “For in them you shall see the living fire of the ruby, the glorious purple of the amethyst, the sea-green of the emerald, all glittering together in an incredible mixture of light.” 

Amulet ring, Middle ages (1400); Image via The British Museum, courtesy of Kaouter Zair.

Legend has it that a Roman senator named Nonius was nearly executed because of his magnificent opal ring. It was reported to be a wonderful specimen the size of a hazelnut. This charm wasn’t lost on Marcus Antonius, who at the time was seducing Cleopatra and was in need of a jewel that could match her beauty. He demanded to buy the ring from Nonius, who was unwilling to part with his beloved opal, even with the threat of execution. He preferred to be exiled, to lose all of his earthly possessions over his cherished ring––so one can only imagine what a stunner it would have been.

The opal’s popularity grew steadily over the centuries, and the belief that the opal possessed all the virtues of other stones endured. During the middle ages the mineral was called ophthalmios, a.k.a. the eye stone, for it was said that the opal could cure any eye disease. But fast forward to the 19th century and the story of the opal changes drastically.

The gem known as a good luck charm fell out of favor, in large part due to the publication of the novel Anne of Geierstein by Sir Walter Scott in 1829. In the book, the main character wears a magical opal in her hair, which seems to change depending on her mood. After the opal comes in contact with holy water, the character is reduced to a pile of ashes and the opal, with its mixture of colors, is rendered colorless. These days, this obscure novel is only known for being at the root of this modern superstition, but at the time sales of opals plummeted, and it is from that point on that the opal, once adored by many, became feared by some. (It is also said that disgruntled diamond miners who felt snubbed by the popularity of the opal helped sustain the myth.) 

More stories fueled the superstition in the second part of the 19th century.  Spanish King Alfonso XII received an opal ring from his mistress Comtesse de Castiglione as a wedding present. They say hell has no fury like a woman scorned, and she felt truly scorned. The ring contained a stunning opal with rare coloring, and after seeing this magnificent specimen, the King’s wife Mercedes of Orleans slipped the ring on her finger. Shortly after, she died mysteriously. Grief-stricken, he gave the ring to his grandmother Queen Christiana, who also died a few months later. The next pair of hands the fatal ring fell into was his sister-in-law, who, you guessed it, died too. After all these fatalities, the King chose to wear the ring that was first meant for him. Oblivious to the chain of events, he slipped the ring on his finger, and not long after, he too succumbed to a mysterious illness…

Details from ‘The Secret of England’s Greatness’ (Queen Victoria presenting a Bible in the Audience Chamber at Windsor) By Thomas Jones Barker 1862-1863; Image via National Portrait Gallery, courtesy of Kaouter Zair.

During her reign (1837-1901) Queen Victoria did her part to reverse the opal’s bad reputation. She owned various pieces of jewelry set with opals, which are still part of the royal trust. Her love for the mineral stemmed from her love for her husband; it was said that the opal was the favorite gem of her beloved Prince Albert, who himself owned numerous badges set with opals. She was rumored to gift opal jewelry to her friends and family. This surely helped the sales of the opal, but the gem never regained its popularity. Maybe it just fell out of fashion, or maybe people really believed that the opal would curse the wearer with a great deal of misfortune. Nonetheless, this extraordinary mineral has a rich history filled with rumors, intrigue, and mystery.

To conclude, I’ll share a recent personal anecdote…For my graduation project at Sint Lucas Antwerp, I examined the opal’s relationship with luck. One of the things I created was a set of unique color collages. These self-created opals were then used in a ring to evoke good or bad luck. Lo and behold, just a couple of days before the exhibition the rings mysteriously disappeared. So you tell me, what do you think, is the opal really unlucky? I’ll let you be the judge of that…


Kaouter Zair is a visual storyteller and jeweler exploring the forgotten and lost stories about jewellery. She holds a BA and MA (Jewellery context) from Sint Lucas, Antwerp Belgium.

Naturally curious, she is driven by uncovering the reason behind things. This insatiable need to seek the obscure, has led her down many rabbit holes. She is captivated by stories that are a strange combination of facts and fiction because they tell us about our willingness to believe.

In her project: The History of Why, she delves into these wonderful stories and their rich history. She researches their forgotten origin and reintroduces these to a contemporary audience. Her work is multi-disciplinary, using the internet as her main archive.


Written by Kaouter Zair; Image credits as noted, provided by Kaouter Zair. Headshot by Saskia Van der Gucht. Feature edited, compiled, and formatted by Future Heirloom Editor Jackie Andrews in collaboration with Karen Davidov of The Jewelry Library.

Material Matters: In the Studio with Luci Jockel

Welcome to Day 5 of NYC Jewelry Week! Here on Future Heirloom, we’re celebrating by bringing you special behind-the-scenes content on some of our favorite programs, events, and exhibitions every day this week. Check in each day for a new feature on the happenings at NYC Jewelry Week.

Today we’re revisiting the recent launch of our first Future Heirloom column: Material Matters, featuring a behind-the-scenes look into some of our favorite contemporary art jeweler’s studios and interviews about their process. We launched Material Matters with a feature on Luci Jockel, a Baltimore-based contemporary jeweler exploring heirloom, memory, and the natural world through her practice. Read the interview with her on Future Heirloom, and see her exhibition Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity, with her sister Emily Jockel all week long at The Jewelry Library.

Luci Jockel photographed by Lavala Harris.

Luci Jockel is an artist located in Baltimore, MD and holds the position as Metalsmithing and Jewelry Lecturer/Coordinator at Towson University. Luci received her MFA from Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) in 2016. She has been honored with the 2019 American Craft Council Emerging Voices Award. Her work is in the collections of RISD Museum, ArtYard and Galerie Marzee. She has curated exhibitions including All Decked Out at Towson University, and In-School Suspension with JV Collective. Luci is a member of JV Collective and is represented by Gallery Loupe.

Knotted, necklace, 2019. Snake vertebrae, freshwater pearls, silk thread.

Future Heirloom: Concepts of history, memory, memento mori, and heirloom feel like common threads in your work over the years. Have you always been interested in the history and “memory” of material?
Where did your interest in material arise from for you?

Luci Jockel:
Having parents that are antique dealers has had a deep impact on my interest in the memory held within materials and objects. They were and are always on the hunt for treasures, the value of which is determined by its own system.
As kids, they would take my siblings and I to auctions and antique shows that to a kid were places of accumulated, stinky, old junk. Little did I realize how much value these objects held beyond monetary, or that my parents’ passion for junk was being instilled in me- they were giving us “the bug”, as they call it. With each object that my parents bought or sold– a chair, quilt, painting, ring, for instance, there was a story of its origins and past life to be told.
Conversing with customers at antique shows was less transactional and more like sitting by a bonfire with friends sharing lore. There is power and value in an object that retains a story, even if sometimes it’s fabricated. 

“As my parents collected antiques, I began my own collection of found material in our backyard-
finding what I saw as treasures, creating a different system of value.”

Luci Jockel

FH: What guides your material interests in your work? How have you selected the materials you’ve worked with?
LJ:
I lean in towards objects and materials that speak quietly of fragility, requiring a soft, empathic touch. Perhaps my mother’s passion and artistic career in textiles influenced that gentle quality.
I also choose materials that gain different meaning in relation to another material or within the context of jewelry. For example, the glisten of honey bee wings catch your eye as if they were gold- holding the same preciousness.
Ultimately, I choose what makes me pause and wish for others to take a moment with as well.

FH: Your use of material in your work is always so intricate and thoughtful. Can you speak a bit about your process?
Is your process carefully planned, more improvisational,
or somewhere in between?

LJ: Thank you, that’s so kind! Much of my work is both planned and improvised. When making a piece that has pattern or when carving stone and there is no room for error, it is planned. Depending on the type of stone or material used to make a pattern, however, will determine how I continue to approach that material. It’s a material’s qualities and its past life that guide how to engage and transform.

For instance, I had originally planned to press bee wings into sheet to create a new material, using mixtures of beeswax, glue or honey as binders, which all ended in a complete mess. This then led me to try a more intentional, careful approach to enhance the quality of the wings. I began with small studies of using archival glue and bee wings to create lace. 

Luci at work in her studio.


Being open to failure and to change a design while in the process of making is important.
My latest bee wing piece and largest one to date, Bee Wing Lace Neckpiece, began as a planned design, stemming from these experiments, but morphed as I continued to expand the scale and wore on the body. There’s an adaptability that I’m constantly learning to embrace when working with found materials.

Bee Wing Lace Neckpiece, 2021. Honey bee wings, archival glue.

FH: What does a typical day in the studio look like for you?
LJ:
Lately, I’ve been starting with small exercises like quick drawings with pen, colored pencil, and highlighters, that have zero pressure or expectation attached. They are in no way connected to any project I have in the works. It’s so freeing and inspires the energy needed for other projects.
After the exercises, I move on to problem solving a new piece I’ve started until I’m able to find that delicious meditative, repetitive state of working, put on a podcast and dive in! Afterwards I take a break to do a little yoga or, more likely, relax in front of the windows of my Baltimore apartment- the views of the sky are insane and truly decompressing.
If I’m still feeling fresh later in the day, I’ll play with material combinations or even just browse through my collection. I love rediscovering materials whether it’s through pairings or even a shift in light. Many times, I hesitate to intervene with the materials I’ve collected– they are complete as they are.

Some recent material studies.
Study for Gold Veil III

FH: Where do you find inspiration for your work?
LJ:
Everywhere! As of the past few weeks:
Historic jewelry: Roman micro mosaic jewelry, morpho jewelry; exhibitions: Life of a Neuron at Artechouse; books: Wild Souls by Emma Marris, Braided Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer; artists: my sister- Emily Jockel, my students, Julia Künnap, Nils Udo, Helen Britton’s milk plastic series, and JV Collective!

Bee Wing Lace, 2014. Honey bee wings, rubber cement.

FH: What are you currently working on? Do you have any projects in the works that you’re particularly excited about?
LJ: There are so many things on the roster right now, and I’m so excited for them all. In preparation for NYCJW, my sister, a ceramist, and I are collaborating on a few pieces for our exhibition, Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity, that are outside of the bounds we typically work within, like adding color, and considering the interplay and crossover of our mediums.

I recently went on a cross-country trip to Oregon with photographer, Lavala Harris, and we’re preparing a few additional projects based on that trip. 
I’m working on a piece for the Baltimore Jewelry Center’s (BJC) Community Challenge, inspired by an archer’s ring within the Walter’s Art Museum collection, using the technique of gold kundan- but with honey bee wings.

BJC, Montgomery College and Towson University are working on a collaborative student/artist show together for Spring 2022.
Lastly, I’ll be preparing for a solo exhibition at Gallery Loupe in the near future!

FH: What does The Power of Jewelry mean to you?
LJ:
The Power of Jewelry comes from the memory it carries. It holds the memory not only of its past lives, but of the maker’s energy and care, of the wearer who finds new meaning, and of their kin who inherit the heirloom. Jewelry is a chain linking together generations, continuously given new life.

Works from Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity, featuring ceramics by Emily Jockel and jewelry by Luci Jockel.

FH: Anything else you’d like to share?
LJ:
Please join my sister, Emily Jockel, and I during NYCJW from November 15-21 at The Jewelry Library, for our exhibition, Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity!

You can find more of Luci’s work on her website, and keep up with her latest work on her Instagram @lucijockel. Luci is represented by Gallery Loupe.


Our sincere thanks to Luci for giving us a glimpse into her studio and process. Text and images courtesy of Luci Jockel; headshot photograph by Lavala Harris. Interview conducted, edited, and compiled by Future Heirloom Editor Jackie Andrews.

Exploring News From Central Asia with Aida Sulova

Welcome to Day 2 of NYC Jewelry Week! Here on Future Heirloom, we’re celebrating by bringing you special behind-the-scenes content on some of our favorite programs, events, and exhibitions every day this week. Check in each day for a new feature on the happenings at NYC Jewelry Week.

Today we’re revisiting a special feature on the NYC Jewelry Week 21 exhibition, News From Central Asia, curated by Aida Sulova, on view at The Jewelry Library November 15-21, 2021. The works in the exhibition reflect currents in Politics, the Environment, and Culture of the region. Read about the making of the exhibition and Aida’s perspective on the curatorial process below.

Above: Tiaras by Jol Jol, a young Kazakh jewelry brand whose work is based on roads, repeat the shape of seven rivers in Kazakhstan.

News From Central Asia exhibition brings together Central Asian artists, makers, and designers whose inspirational works reflect political protests, climate change, collective memory restoration, jewelry as reminders of historical events, transformation caused by modernization. For New York City Jewelry Week 2021, curator Aida Sulova asked Central Asian artists and designers to share the news from their home country in the form of a wearable object – a jewelry piece.

For many artists in Central Asia making art is the only way to respond and talk about the events taking place today. Although the concept of this exhibition has a geographical representation, the themes of the news are relevant to what we are witnessing in the world. Examples include “Kinematics of Protests,” “Perestroika,” “Wearable Memory Card,” “Women of Kashgar,” “Cotton as a Curse,” says curator Sulova. Central Asia is a region which stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to China and Mongolia in the east. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan are former Soviet Republics that comprise Central Asia today. Since its Independence gained after the collapse of the Soviet Union, Central Asian countries have been undergoing a number of major political, social, cultural transformations.

Excerpted from Aida Sulova’s Press Release for News From Central Asia

Aida Sulova’s Curatorial Field Notes for News From Central Asia

I take a deep breath to read the news from Central Asia. News from the motherland worries the most. Born in Kyrgyzstan, former Soviet Republic in Central Asia, I now live in the US. When I call my mother, who lives in Kyrgyzstan, to ask for news, it is never about a new purse that she bought or my relative’s new born baby or anything of that sort, it is always about the politics in the region. 

When I heard that “The Power of Jewelry” was going to be the theme of the New York City Jewelry Week in 2021, I wanted to propose an exhibition that would become a visual and tactile reflection of the news from Central Asia. Through the tapestry of creative visions, artworks, and field notes, I was hoping to portray the complex thinking and challenging statements of makers, designers, and artists from Central Asia. 

The past year was full of cataclysms that made us turn back while looking forward. Who were we, what have we become, and what have we done? Looking at what I am today, I can see my identity formation through a number of major historical events: being born and brought up in the Soviet Union, experiencing Perestroika, collapse of the old regime, life in the newly independent Muslim state, the Tulip Revolution, the April Revolution, and immigration. Now living and witnessing recent political and social upheavals in the US, I thought I’d developed some sort of immunity to the experiences of that kind. But the news kept coming and my reaction to it proved that one will never develop an emotional stability for today’s atrocities. 

After I announced the theme for the “News from Central Asia” show and sent out invitations to selected artists, I packed my stuff and went to Kyrgyzstan. The trip back home in the post-pandemic period was not only about visiting my family, friends, and memories. It was also about connecting with new people, places, and practices. Looking for new codes, symbols, and answers became a central point of the journey. 

I met with all participating artists, both in person and online. We talked about contemporary art and how meaningful and empowering it is when it gets to sending a message into the world. How it can be displayed not only on the walls but also on the body. I told them about The Jewelry Library and its collection of books and jewelry and its projects that unify and inspire a community of makers and storytellers. I am glad that having spent time with artists, after our walks and talks, laughs and tears, I ended up with a collection of art pieces that will be presented at the “News from Central Asia” exhibition in New York.  

How can one tell a story through a wearable object? It turns out that there are many distinctive ways! A jewelry piece called “Kinematic of Protests” is made by an artistic duo, Galina and Evgeny Boikov, who used the real silhouettes of protesters from the Kyrgyz Revolutions of 2005 and 2010 to show that “dynamics of gestures and poses of individuals in extreme situations are identical for all protests and revolutions around the world.” The Tajik artist Diana Rahmanova made a jewelry piece from the household objects that during the Civil War in Tajikistan served as body protection. Two Almaty-based artists restore a forgotten Uighur material culture through costumes, jewelry, folk dances, and stories. Jol Jol, a young Kazakh jewelry brand whose work is based on roads, proposed tiaras that repeat the shape of seven rivers in Kazakhstan, an area that used to be a concentration of life, trade, and culture, but now is drying up.

Saule Dyussenbina’s series of photos of people’s trash turned into sculptural jewelry was made during the Lazy Art residence at Issyk Kul Lake. Altynai Osmoeva uses a shape of a child’s bib to reinforce the Soviet upbringing style filled with male cult jewelry. Turkmen artist Jennet presented unusual wearable embroidered portraits of Turkmen women.

“But how would you trust Aida?” – one artist shared her story about her friends’ concern when she decided to send her mother’s jewelry for the show. “I trust her because trust is what we talk about and I hear what I’ve waited to hear. I’d like to tell the world about the richness of Uighur culture while everybody is busy with politics.” 

“I lost my sleep when I read your concept and after we met in my studio. But that is a good feeling because I feel challenged and inspired,” Jakshylyk Chentemirov, a jeweler from Kyrgyzstan told me. 






Left: Work by Jakshylyk Chentemirov

While I was doing my research on Central Asian jewelry art, I met a scholar Ekaterina Ermakova, who shared her article “From Folk Tradition to Original Jewelry Art,” which states: “In Central Asia, designer jewelry emerged in the 1970-1980s. It replaced traditional folk jewelry. The most important characteristics of this jewelry are the amount of information and freedom of choice. Today, three main stylistic directions have been formed. The first is the traditional school, within which the jewelers copy ancient jewelry using traditional materials. The second is ethnic style, the main task of which is not copying old forms, but creating a recognizable image associated with national culture. Third – contemporary artistic style based on individual perception of the national culture. In avant-garde artworks, the artist freely handles new jewelry art materials using wood, leather, felt, bone, silk.” 

Not all Central Asian artists feel safe and free to share their creative visions today. I’ve met artists who printed their artworks on coffee mugs to show them to the world. And while bringing some artworks for the “News from Central Asia” to the US, I had to go through security control and make a presentation about the artwork that the border officers called “weird looking.” The hardest was to find and ship the work of the artist from Turkmenistan. The borders are closed and locally controlled DHL is the only connecting point. Even while shipping the artworks and through dealing with logistics, customs, and state authorities, one can read the news and feel the temperature of the region. 

News From Central Asia is curated by Aida Sulova and presented by The Jewelry Library for NYC Jewelry Week.
The exhibition is on view November 15-21, 2021, 11am-7pm at The Jewelry Library, 1239 Broadway, Suite 500.

For more on the exhibition and to RSVP, click here. Follow curator Aida Sulova on Instagram @aidasulova. You can find more from The Jewelry Library on their website and Instagram @thejewelrylibrary.


Thanks to Aida Sulova for sharing insight into News From Central Asia with us. Text excerpted from press release and Curatorial Field Notes, both written by Aida Sulova. Images provided by Aida Sulova; image credits belong to the respective artists represented. Feature edited and compiled by Future Heirloom Editor Jackie Andrews.

Material Matters: In the Studio with Luci Jockel

Today we’re excited to launch the first of our very own Future Heirloom columns: Material Matters, featuring a behind-the-scenes look into some of our favorite contemporary art jeweler’s studios and interviews about their process. We thought the perfect artist to kick off Material Matters was Luci Jockel, a Baltimore-based contemporary jeweler exploring heirloom, memory, and the natural world through her practice. Before we dive into our conversation with Luci, get to know her a bit more below:

Luci Jockel photographed by Lavala Harris.

Luci Jockel is an artist located in Baltimore, MD and holds the position as Metalsmithing and Jewelry Lecturer/Coordinator at Towson University. Luci received her MFA from Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) in 2016. She has been honored with the 2019 American Craft Council Emerging Voices Award. Her work is in the collections of RISD Museum, ArtYard and Galerie Marzee. She has curated exhibitions including All Decked Out at Towson University, and In-School Suspension with JV Collective. Luci is a member of JV Collective and is represented by Gallery Loupe.

Knotted, necklace, 2019. Snake vertebrae, freshwater pearls, silk thread.

Future Heirloom: Concepts of history, memory, memento mori, and heirloom feel like common threads in your work over the years. Have you always been interested in the history and “memory” of material?
Where did your interest in material arise from for you?

Luci Jockel:
Having parents that are antique dealers has had a deep impact on my interest in the memory held within materials and objects. They were and are always on the hunt for treasures, the value of which is determined by its own system.
As kids, they would take my siblings and I to auctions and antique shows that to a kid were places of accumulated, stinky, old junk. Little did I realize how much value these objects held beyond monetary, or that my parents’ passion for junk was being instilled in me- they were giving us “the bug”, as they call it. With each object that my parents bought or sold– a chair, quilt, painting, ring, for instance, there was a story of its origins and past life to be told.
Conversing with customers at antique shows was less transactional and more like sitting by a bonfire with friends sharing lore. There is power and value in an object that retains a story, even if sometimes it’s fabricated. 

“As my parents collected antiques, I began my own collection of found material in our backyard-
finding what I saw as treasures, creating a different system of value.”

Luci Jockel

FH: What guides your material interests in your work? How have you selected the materials you’ve worked with?
LJ:
I lean in towards objects and materials that speak quietly of fragility, requiring a soft, empathic touch. Perhaps my mother’s passion and artistic career in textiles influenced that gentle quality.
I also choose materials that gain different meaning in relation to another material or within the context of jewelry. For example, the glisten of honey bee wings catch your eye as if they were gold- holding the same preciousness.
Ultimately, I choose what makes me pause and wish for others to take a moment with as well.

FH: Your use of material in your work is always so intricate and thoughtful. Can you speak a bit about your process?
Is your process carefully planned, more improvisational,
or somewhere in between?

LJ: Thank you, that’s so kind! Much of my work is both planned and improvised. When making a piece that has pattern or when carving stone and there is no room for error, it is planned. Depending on the type of stone or material used to make a pattern, however, will determine how I continue to approach that material. It’s a material’s qualities and its past life that guide how to engage and transform.

For instance, I had originally planned to press bee wings into sheet to create a new material, using mixtures of beeswax, glue or honey as binders, which all ended in a complete mess. This then led me to try a more intentional, careful approach to enhance the quality of the wings. I began with small studies of using archival glue and bee wings to create lace. 

Luci at work in her studio.


Being open to failure and to change a design while in the process of making is important.
My latest bee wing piece and largest one to date, Bee Wing Lace Neckpiece, began as a planned design, stemming from these experiments, but morphed as I continued to expand the scale and wore on the body. There’s an adaptability that I’m constantly learning to embrace when working with found materials.

Bee Wing Lace Neckpiece, 2021. Honey bee wings, archival glue.

FH: What does a typical day in the studio look like for you?
LJ:
Lately, I’ve been starting with small exercises like quick drawings with pen, colored pencil, and highlighters, that have zero pressure or expectation attached. They are in no way connected to any project I have in the works. It’s so freeing and inspires the energy needed for other projects.
After the exercises, I move on to problem solving a new piece I’ve started until I’m able to find that delicious meditative, repetitive state of working, put on a podcast and dive in! Afterwards I take a break to do a little yoga or, more likely, relax in front of the windows of my Baltimore apartment- the views of the sky are insane and truly decompressing.
If I’m still feeling fresh later in the day, I’ll play with material combinations or even just browse through my collection. I love rediscovering materials whether it’s through pairings or even a shift in light. Many times, I hesitate to intervene with the materials I’ve collected– they are complete as they are.

Some recent material studies.
Study for Gold Veil III

FH: Where do you find inspiration for your work?
LJ:
Everywhere! As of the past few weeks:
Historic jewelry: Roman micro mosaic jewelry, morpho jewelry; exhibitions: Life of a Neuron at Artechouse; books: Wild Souls by Emma Marris, Braided Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer; artists: my sister- Emily Jockel, my students, Julia Künnap, Nils Udo, Helen Britton’s milk plastic series, and JV Collective!

Bee Wing Lace, 2014. Honey bee wings, rubber cement.

FH: What are you currently working on? Do you have any projects in the works that you’re particularly excited about?
LJ: There are so many things on the roster right now, and I’m so excited for them all. In preparation for NYCJW, my sister, a ceramist, and I are collaborating on a few pieces for our exhibition, Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity, that are outside of the bounds we typically work within, like adding color, and considering the interplay and crossover of our mediums.

I recently went on a cross-country trip to Oregon with photographer, Lavala Harris, and we’re preparing a few additional projects based on that trip. 
I’m working on a piece for the Baltimore Jewelry Center’s (BJC) Community Challenge, inspired by an archer’s ring within the Walter’s Art Museum collection, using the technique of gold kundan- but with honey bee wings.

BJC, Montgomery College and Towson University are working on a collaborative student/artist show together for Spring 2022.
Lastly, I’ll be preparing for a solo exhibition at Gallery Loupe in the near future!

FH: What does The Power of Jewelry mean to you?
LJ:
The Power of Jewelry comes from the memory it carries. It holds the memory not only of its past lives, but of the maker’s energy and care, of the wearer who finds new meaning, and of their kin who inherit the heirloom. Jewelry is a chain linking together generations, continuously given new life.

Works from Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity, featuring ceramics by Emily Jockel and jewelry by Luci Jockel.

FH: Anything else you’d like to share?
LJ:
Please join my sister, Emily Jockel, and I during NYCJW from November 15-21 at The Jewelry Library, for our exhibition, Sisterhood: Bodies in Proximity!

You can find more of Luci’s work on her website, and keep up with her latest work on her Instagram @lucijockel. Luci is represented by Gallery Loupe.


Our sincere thanks to Luci for giving us a glimpse into her studio and process. Text and images courtesy of Luci Jockel; headshot photograph by Lavala Harris. Interview conducted, edited, and compiled by Future Heirloom Editor Jackie Andrews.