Tag: wearing jewelry

Lia Lam: Balance & Harmony

Studied Minimalism

New to the jewelry scene, designer, Lia Lam, is already making waves with her minimalist creations. Venturing to Gem Geneve this week as part of the Designer Vivarium by Vivienne Becker, she is one of the most promising young jewelers to come out of 2023.

From strikingly balanced belcher rings crafted of fused platinum and 18-karat gold to harmonious necklaces inspired by music notes on sheet paper, Lia’s work is defined by her poetic use of geometric forms and symmetry. We sat down with Lia to learn her story and understand her thoughtful approach to minimalist jewelry.

Jewelry designer, Lia Lam, sitting at her desk hand painting a rind design from her Passepartout Collection.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

Who are you?

I’m a designer who creates wearable stories and architecture.

What do you make/sell?

Memories, attitudes and emotions. They are translated into my designs via the symbolic juxtaposition of simple forms; simple forms have the power to tell evocative stories.

Where do you make/sell it?

London, United Kingdom. I have a by-appointment space only in central London. I’m not working with any galleries or stores currently, so the best way to find me is by email.

A hand gripping a green piece of cloth wearing two of Lia Lam's Passepartout Collection fine jewelry rings made of 18-karat yellow and gold diamonds.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

When/why did you start?

In pursuit of my lifelong dream, I started designing in 2016, self-taught, and began prototyping ideas during the pandemic, in paper, play-dough and finally, metal.

I am attracted to fine jewelry’s ‘permanent’ and three-dimensional nature – it lives on. We all use different themes to interpret the world. Jewelry and photography are the two that speak to me the most. Both of them are portable; they tell stories and are a witness of time.

A hand caressing a green squash wearing two ring by jewelry designer Lia Lam. The left ring is made of 18-karat yellow gold and from the Passepartout Collection. The right ring is made of 18-karat yellow gold and features two toi et moi, bezel set diamonds, from her 100% ring collection.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

When/why did you start?

Listening to people with a different point of view, lifestyle or from a different culture. This makes me reflect on the way I do things and stimulates me to challenge the status quo. Apart from that, doing origami, and sitting on a train.

Origami is nostalgic; it helps me think in a three-dimensional way and has that spatial awareness when designing. For me, jewelry shouldn’t only look interesting from one angle. ‘Every angle considered and offers a point of interest’ is one of my key design philosophies; this was inspired by my past experience as a dancer.

I was never the best dancer, but learning to enjoy something one’s not good at helped me understand a side of myself that I’ve never been in touch with and a world I have not been part of. One evening when I was performing in Sadler’s Wells in London, I observed that not everyone looked at the main dancer at the centre of the stage. Depending on where the audience is sitting in the theatre, their focus is on a different dancer. Each dancer entertains; each move is a three-dimensional consideration.

Two hands embracing one another, on the right is a two-tone belcher style ring. The ring is made of 50% 18-karat yellow gold and 50% platinum, split directly down the middle.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

Do you ever feel bored? What do you do about it?

I have endless ideas and less time to keep my mind and hands busy.

What’s the next big jewelry trend?

I don’t believe in trends; they come and go, while jewelry doesn’t. Minimalist jewelry is about practicing the art of subtraction, not addition. More is always more, while less is not always more. To ensure less is always more – making sure each subtraction adds a point of interest and value to the design is what I really enjoy doing. It’s problem-solving, my kind of puzzle!

But I hope to see more men expressing themselves through jewelry.

What’s our industry’s biggest challenge?

As a new designer, I find intellectual property protection particularly challenging. The process, as well as the cost. In a very much globalized world, especially when it comes to trade and commerce, IP protection is still very much regional. Intellectual property is probably the most valuable asset a new designer could have, yet the financial barrier to obtaining it makes IP protection intangible for most new designers.

A hand resting against an orange blazer, the middle finger features a 100% ring from Lia Lam's fine jewelry collection. The right ring is made of 18-karat yellow gold and features two toi et moi, bezel set diamonds.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

How do we fix it?

I wish I had a solution. Similar to hallmarking and to some degree copyrights, wouldn’t it be nice if design patents/rights can be recognized globally, via some sort of an agreement/convention?

If you could ask an industry peer one question, what would you ask and to whom would you ask it?

I’d ask diamond cutters, if they were to invent a new cut that would be named after them, how would it look?

A portrait of jewelry designer Lia Lam (in profile) sitting on a chair in a wood-panelled modern room.
Photo c/o: Lia Lam

Jewelry to Wear, but Make it Art: An Auction Preview

In anticipation of the upcoming Rago|Wright Fall Jewelry Auction on October 26, 2022, we sat down with Dianne Batista, Director of Jewelry and Watches and Sr. Specialist at Rago|Wright. Since joining the department, Dianne has been including studio and contemporary jewelry in the auctions which are typically reserved for fine jewelry. Interested in this new direction for the department, we wanted to learn more and help her spread the word!

Clockwise from left to right: ‘Diminishing Spirals’ copper necklace by Art Smith, Brooch by Bettina Speckner, Ring by Marion Herbst

Q: Tell us about yourself, what is your jewelry story?
A: That’s a big question! I have always had a career in jewelry after studying Art History. From the very beginning, what has attracted me to jewelry was the artistry and its miniature nature. When I looked at jewelry as art, I was hooked! My career started with 10 years at Christie’s. As Sr. Specialist, I was fortunate to work with many important collections and handled a tremendous amount of jewelry. My inquisitive nature took me to manage a Madison Avenue boutique, Janet Mavec. It was Janet, who inspired me to look at contemporary artists more closely. Gabriella Kiss and Otto Jakob were two designers she handled back in the 1990s. I was Director of Dior Fine Jewelry in NYC and then at John Hardy for their fine jewelry line, Cinta. I took time away from work with my three young children. When it was time to return, it was natural to begin consulting at Christie’s, this time cataloguing the Elizabeth Taylor online jewelry auction. I also consulted as Director of David Webb archives for several years before joining Rago/Wright auction house.

Left: ‘Diminishing Spirals’ copper necklace by Art Smith, Right: Silver brooch by Iris Eichenberg

Q. What is your vision for the jewelry sales and how is it different from your predecessors?
A: My vision for Rago / Wright jewelry auctions is to present a breadth of jewelry focused on quality and design. Each sale is divided into chapters to tell a story and offer fine pieces to all levels of collectors. As a design house, we believe it is important to represent new designers and delve into artist and studio jewelry. Each sale also includes strong examples of silver jewelry.

Q. Why have you decided to include contemporary jewelry or studio jewelry in the sales? There seems to be an interest in artist jewelry at the moment but your focus has been slightly different, can you tell us about this?
A: I believe in selling art jewelry alongside what many refer to as “Fine Jewelry and Gems”. In my opinion, separating the two marginalizes artist jewelry and hurts collecting fine jewelry as an art form. There is nothing to say that the collector can’t appreciate both.

Q. What do you think is the biggest challenge for this type of jewelry on the secondary market?
A: The biggest challenge for studio art jewelry and contemporary jewelry artists is that they have not established a strong secondary market to determine value. Creating auction records and establishing strong resale values promotes the entire industry.

‘Munster Da Vinci’ brooch by Gijs Bakker

Q. What has been the most interesting piece you have come across while building the sales?
A: I fall in love with a few select pieces each auction and love to see them find new owners, who love them as much as I do. In our last auction I connected with Robert Smit’s ‘Letter to Madonna Dolomiti’ brooch. It spoke to me. I loved selling an important Tone Vigeland coral, silver and gold necklace, a Roger Lucas lapis lazuli and gold ring for Cartier, and more recently an Art Smith ‘Modern’ cuff bracelet.

Q. Have you discovered any new names?
A: I wouldn’t say discover, but with each auction, I learn about artists and try to educate others about their work. The work of the accomplished artist Zuzana Rudavska is new to me in this auction.

Left: Gold and niello brooch by Giampaolo Babetto, Right: Silver and gold earrings by Margaret De Patta

Q. If we are thinking about buying from an investment POV, over the course of the last year, have you seen any designers/artists really jump in the market?
A: I believe in buying jewelry to wear, but when looking at investment, I recommend jewelers who have had a long career in the field, have exhibition history and create jewelry that is distinctly theirs. Currently, there is a lot of interest in Art Smith, and I love it! I also really appreciate that with that interest, the field is expanding and other jewelry artists are having their work sought after and considered.

Q. What would you like to see happen in the market?
A: I would like to see more exhibitions of art jewelry and more art galleries handling the category. It’s a very exciting time for the field. For sure, NYC Jewelry Week is doing their share and I love it!

Q. Can you share with us what you have coming up in the next sale that you are particularly excited about?
A: In our auction next week, I am really excited to be selling works by master art jewelers, Giampaolo Babetto, Robert Smit, and Gijs Bakker next to jewelry by important female artists Margaret de Patta, Iris Eichenberg and Bettina Speckner.

‘Madonna Dolomiti XI’ necklace by Robert Smit

Learn more about the pieces featured here and all the items in the the upcoming Rago|Wright Fall Jewelry Auction here.

Written by Bella Neyman; Images courtesy of Rago|Wright. Special thank you to Dianne Batista of Rago|Wright.

How They Wear It: Suchi Reddy

On Future Heirloom, the Power of Jewelry is central: we want to celebrate jewelry and jewelry stories in all forms—including the infinite, unique ways jewelry is worn, and what that says about the wearer. Today, we’re kicking off a new series on exactly that: How They Wear It. How They Wear It will spotlight people from around the globe, of diverse professions and backgrounds, and talk to them about how they use jewelry to express themselves.

Our debut How They Wear It features Suchi Reddy, an Indian architect and artist based in New York. We talked to Suchi about her jewelry collecting habits, what she looks for in an accessory, what pieces are most special to her, and more. Explore the world of jewelry with us.

Future Heirloom: Who are you?
Suchi Reddy: I am Suchi Reddy, I’m an architect /artist originally from Chennai, India, but now a long time New Yorker.

FH: When did you start wearing and collecting jewelry?
SR: I am a tale of paradoxes. Growing up in India, where jewelry is not just an obsession, but a heritage, I was not into it at all, except for appreciating it aesthetically.
Its position as a status symbol in our culture was not one that I really wanted to engage with. In fact, I did not wear much jewelry until I was in my thirties, and a practicing architect here in New York. I began collecting jewelry, but this time around it was my love of innovative materials that drove me to find and wear unique pieces.

FH: How do you wear your jewelry?
SR: I have been told that I dress like an architect and accessorize like a designer! I wear my jewelry usually as the star of the show.

FH: Who is your greatest jewelry or style inspiration?
SR: That is a tough question, I have so many… if I had to pick one I would return to my traditional roots: there is a Bollywood film called “Jodhaa Akbar,” about the most famous inter-religious marriage in Indian history, hen Emperor Akbar, a Muslim, married Princess Jodhaa, a Hindu. The jewelry in this film is exquisite!

FH: What are your go-to jewelry brands?
SR: Objet-a, a New York City-based brand By Tom Dunn and Olivier Pechou, is one of my go-to’s. I also love Pono.

FH: Do you see any trends that people should be aware of?
SR: In recent years, I have been impressed with how many men wear jewelry, especially bracelets. I think this is a huge trend.

FH: What is your favorite piece of jewelry?
SR: It is a necklace of black stones that I found in a vintage shop in Wisconsin many years ago.

FH: Any sentimental pieces / most memorable piece of jewelry?
SR: Anything my mother gave me has a special place in my heart and life, especially a chain of black and gold beads that she gave me.

Thanks to Suchi Reddy for sharing How She Wears It. Connect with Suchi and her company Reddymade Architecture and Design here.

Text, quotes, and images provided by Suchi Reddy, edited by Jackie Andrews and JB Jones.